An ambitious restoration project has returned the Castles of Cannero to their former glory. After decades of neglect, the lake fortress rising from the serene waters of Lake Maggiore – facing the towns of Cannero and Cannobio – has been given new life. Spearheaded by the Borromeo family, this initiative aims to open the site to the public with a state-of-the-art museum. 

The Castles of Cannero stand on two rocky islets, located about three hundred meters from the lake’s western shore. On the islet farthest from the coast rises the main stronghold, Vitaliana. Here, the visionary fusion of an interactive museum and the site’s invaluable historical heritage comes to life. 

The story begins in the early 15th century, when the walls and towers became the backdrop for the exploits of the Mazzarditi, a family of ruthless brigands from Cannobio. The five brothers built a small fortress, the Malpaga, which was later razed in 1414 after their defeat at the hands of Filippo Maria Visconti. From 1441, ownership of the Cannobio fiefdom and the Cannero islands passed to the Borromeo family, who transformed it into a stronghold during the Italian Wars and the era of the Duchy of Milan, creating much of what still stands today. Among the most significant developments was the construction of Rocca Vitaliana – a symbol of power and prestige – on the ruins of the Malpaga. This project was initiated in 1519 by Count Ludovico Borromeo and completed in 1526. The name “Vitaliana” pays homage to the Paduan family from which the Borromeo dynasty descends. 

Over the centuries, the fortress was gradually abandoned, becoming home to soldiers, counterfeit priests, fishermen, and humble tenants. At various times, it also served as a citrus grove and a rabbit farm for the Borromeo family. In the 19th century, its fate shifted to that of a mysterious ruin, inspiring artists and writers. In 1879, Queen Victoria of England, visiting Lake Maggiore on holiday, described it as “a strange old castle” and added, “in ruins”. According to the Queen, the decaying towers and walls overlooking the water enhanced the site’s romantic beauty and mysterious allure. A magnificent watercolor painted in 1843 by the English artist J.M.W. Turner perfectly captures the awe inspired by the crumbling complex, as if it might at any moment be swallowed again by the lake. 

As part of the restoration project, an in-depth archaeological and historical investigation, along with meticulous archival research, has traced the intricate history of this lake fortress through the centuries. The museum tour reveals hidden stories and intriguing details about its past.